Step 13
Attach the post
To hold these light sandwiches upright, I took a length of galvanized steel pipe, connected a 90-degree street elbow (one male threaded end and one female threaded end), then attached that to a pipe flange screwed to the bottom side of the wood. The pipe, flange and bottom couple of inches of the post get buried.
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Step 14
Low-Voltage Power Guide
The solar lights I used for these bollard lights are great for their simplicity and low cost. But they’re not perfect. I’m not sure of their durability, and they’re inconsistent during long stretches of cloudy days.
A low-voltage lighting setup provides more reliable lighting, but at a cost of time and money. The components you need depend on the number of lights you’ll connect and their combined wattage.
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Buy a larger transformer you’ll initially need so you can add lights later as your landscape (and imagination) expands. If you’re installing 400 watts of lights, buy a 600-watt transformer.
When lighting a path, decide whether you want to light only the path or the path and the features around it. The broader the field you want to light, the higher the light pole you’ll need. Path lights with 20-watt halogen bulb at a 24-in. height should be spaced every 10 feet.
Consider seasonal factors when planning your landscape low voltage lighting installation. Install lights where they won’t be easily damaged by plows or shovels.
For safety’s sake, before you dig for your low-voltage lighting, call 811 to have your utility companies mark the locations of underground wires and pipes. The service is usually free, and you’ll avoid dangerous and costly surprises.
Connect the wires with weatherproof wire connectors. These have a shield on the bottom and sealant inside to make them weatherproof. If your lights have press-on connections, cut them off, strip off 1/2-in. of insulation and install weatherproof connectors.
