Step 11
Make a ‘sandwich’ tabletop
Glue layers of hardboard to both sides of the MDF core. Glue on the bottom layer first. You can press the parts together with an MDF platform, 2x4s and clamps, or by stacking weights on the sandwich.
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Tabletop ‘sandwich’ detail
Here’s how to use a slab of MDF as a gluing platform when applying 2x4s and clamps.
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Trim the top
Cut off the protruding hardboard using a flush-trim bit. The bearing rolls along the core, guiding the bit so it shaves the hardboard perfectly even with the core. Then cut a hole for the router, add the top layer of hardboard and trim it the same way.
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Laminate the top
Wrap the top with hardwood edging, spread on contact cement and apply the plastic laminate. Slip sticks let you center the laminate before lowering it onto the top. Once the laminate makes contact with the top, it’s permanently stuck; there are no second chances.
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Mount the router base
Remove the plastic plate and handles from the router base and set the base in the table top. Mark the screw-hole locations and drill holes so you can screw the base to the top. Be sure to orient the base so the depth lock faces the front of the table.
Think of the top like a sandwich. The MDF core (D) is the meat and the 1/4-in. hardboard (N) is the bread.
Here’s the recipe: First, glue one layer of hardboard (cut about 1/2-in. larger than the final size) to the MDF core. I pressed the parts together using a slab of MDF as a platform, 2x4s and clamps. This is a complicated glue-up, and I strongly recommend that you make a dry run complete with all the clamps first.
For a simpler approach, use weights. Lay the hardboard on a perfectly flat, sturdy surface, apply glue and set the MDF core on it. Then set weights on the MDF — lots of weights. Six five-gallon buckets of water will fit nicely on the sandwich and apply plenty of weight. Just be careful not to spill!.
When the glue driee, trim the hardboard and cut a hole through the hardboard and MDF, using your router base as a template to mark the hole. You can center the hole in the tabletop. But I like extra support in front of the router bit, so I centered the hole eight inches from the back of the tabletop.
When you’ve cut the hole, center the tabletop on the cabinet and trace the hole onto the cabinet top. Then cut a hole in the cabinet top at least 1/2-in. larger than the hole in the tabletop. Now add the second layer of hardboard to the tabletop. But don’t cut a hole in it. The upper layer of hardboard forms the work surface and supports the router.
To complete the tabletop, add the hardwood edging, followed by the plastic laminate. Ease the edge of the table with a chamfer bit to prevent chipping the brittle laminate. While you’re laminating the top, go ahead and laminate stock for the fence faces too. If you have extra laminate, make extra faces to replace damaged ones later.
Now you’re ready to install the router.
Using a hole saw, drill a router-bit hole sized to suit your largest router bit. Then mark and drill screw holes so you can fasten your router base to the tabletop. When you bore countersink holes through the laminate to accommodate the screw heads, go slowly and cautiously. There’s just slightly more than 1/4-in. of material there; bore too deep and you’re in big trouble.
With the router base mounted, the tabletop is complete. Center it on the cabinet and fasten it with screws driven from inside the cabinet.
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Step 12
The router table fence
Make two fence parts at once
Cut a hole in a plank of MDF, then cut the plank in half to make two perfectly matching parts: the base and the rail. When the fence is assembled, the cutouts form an opening for the router bit.
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Slot the fence rail
Drill pairs of holes in the fence rail to mark the ends of each slot. With the router off, set the rail over the router bit. Switch the router on and cut until you reach the second hole. Cut each slot the same way. Clamp on a long wood scrap as a temporary fence.
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Fence slotting detail
Here’s how to use the hose to start and stop the cuts for the slots.
The fence base and rail will come from one piece of MDF. Cut this blank to 8-5/8- x 32-in. and drill a 3-in. hole in the center with a jigsaw or hole saw. Rip the blank in half and you’ve got both parts, perfectly matched.
Now it’s time to put your new table to work! You’ll use it to cut slots in the fence rail, which allow the fence faces to slide in or out.
First, mark the slot location on the fence rail (Figure A). Then drill a 5/16-in. hole at both ends of each slot. Chuck a 5/16-in. straight bit into your router and raise it to a height of about 7/8-in. above the tabletop. Set the fence rail on the router table so the bit protrudes through the first hole on your left.
Clamp on a temporary fence, turn on the router and push the stock from right to left until the bit enters the hole at the other end. Turn off the router and let the bit completely stop before you move on to the next slot. (Aren’t you glad you added that external power switch?) Join the two fence halves with glue and screws. Add the triangular fence supports (K) and the dust port (P).
The fence faces need 3/4-in. recesses to countersink the carriage bolt heads and 5/16-in. holes for the bolt shanks. The holes must align perfectly with the slots on the fence rail, so it’s a good idea to cut a fake fence face from a scrap of MDF, drill the holes and test the fit. If the fit is right, use the fake as a pattern to drill the fence faces. Bolt on the faces and your fence is ready for action.
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